When sailing cruisers go to Panama, there are two absolutely "must see" island archipelagos. One of them is Bocas del Toro, west of the Canal entrance on the Caribbean side. I visited there four years ago, sailing with Robert. The other is the San Blas Islands, which are east of the Canal, which was the destination for Ramon and me.
The San Blas islands are absolutely everything one would expect from your typical tropical paradise: crystal-clear water, swaying palm trees, and white sandy beaches. Oh and there are all the pretty girls in their itty bitty bikinis; but, I don't pay attention to them. Don't even notice them, in fact.
We anchored in a cove called Holandes, and I tell you, it was absolutely magical. About seven or so little islands surrounded an inner bay, or cove. It was about a half-mile or so in diameter. Outside of the islands were reefs, which broke up the ocean swells, making the waters in the cove rather calm. You could hear the roar of breakers on the reefs day and night. At any time, 20 to 30 boats would be anchored here in the cove. In the center of the cove was a magnificent coral reef, were we spent many hours exploring via snorkel.
The island on the eastern side of the archipelago had a really cool beach and a funky little bar where lots of the visiting sailors hung out. It had a dinghy dock, music, picnic tables, food & drink, and a lighted volleyball court. And Starlink.
There was even a little thatch hut, built out over the water, that I understand was for rent; sort of an AirBNB.
It was here that we met up with Dario & Susan, and their 5-year-old son SImone, good friends of Ramon. (More later on this family.)
At the volleyball court, the action never stopped. Here is young Simone out on the court with the grown-ups.
On the opposite side of the island was a restaurant called Ibin's. The walkable trail was lined with about a hundred conch shells. The restaurant, made mostly from bamboo and thatch, was build entirely out over the water. Oh and it solar panels on the roof.
The ceiling inside was covered with flags from all over the world.
I spent a bit of time beach-combing.
There is lots of interesting wildlife. Here is an osprey, sitting on a tree stump, with its loud whistle that could be heard for a long way. The beaches were beautiful, except for ... all the plastic trash. (No, I did not photographic it.) It's everywhere, often in enormous quantities. I guess it all washes up from the ocean. The vast bulk of it is plastic bottles - with the lids on. Please, dear reader, when you empty a plastic bottle, leave the lid OFF. And crush the bottle. That way, it won't blow away in the wind, and if it does get in the ocean, at least it will sink.
One of the best things about cruising and sailing is all the people one meets. Ramon has been sailing in these parts for years, and knows lots of sailing couples. Here are his friends Pete & Heather, who sail all over the Atlantic Ocean with their three kids.
Russ & Suzette, like everyone here, have a boat. We met them at Ibin's. It's really easy to just go up to any of them, strike up a conversation about sailing, and make some new friends.
Ramon acquired some additional sailing crew, as Dario, Susan, and Simone came on board. Dario had, amongst his possessions, a classic guitar. He played and sang, in Spanish, and impressed me greatly with his skillful guitar-playing and his smooth, mellow voice. (He didn't know much English.)
I traveled with Ramon for a little over two weeks. We visited many incredible, beautiful places and did a lot of really fun things. And having Dario and family aboard was a delight!
But, we did not get to do much actual sailing, as the wind just would not cooperate. Ramon is looking to sell Calmer Waters and upgrade to ... a trawler. A power boat. No sails. Or, as I like to call it, the "dark side". The persistent lack of good sailing wind is one factor. Also, he'll be able to cross under low bridges. And stand up inside the engine room.
Here is just a couple of ordinary gals, playing on a paddleboard.
Stay close, dear readers. Another boating adventure is always just around the corner.
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